Small Farm Organic vs. Large Farm Organic

It is a new year, and we are all thinking about taking better care of ourselves. We plan to exercise for our hearts, de-clutter for our peace of mind, and eat well for weight-loss, stamina, and disease prevention. Eating organic foods — especially those grown at small local farms — can be a great way to embark on healthy living.

Thanks to the popularity of organic foods and the premium price they command, big farms are also jumping into the organic market. In some ways, this is a good thing: Large farms have established distribution channels with large retail grocery chains, so organic foods are becoming more mainstream. In other ways, it is a challenge for large farms to effectively balance the altruistic tenets of organic farming with the need to maintain profitability. For us as consumers, it is a good idea to take a second look at our organic food to ensure we are getting the maximum nutritious bang for our buck, while doing our part to protect the environment.

Specifically, let’s discuss organic beef. To be labeled “organic” (per the implementation of the 2002 National Organic Program (NOP) regulations), the USDA requires that ranchers track the health and feeding history of every cow. In addition, the cattle must not receive antibiotics or growth-promoting hormones, they must be fed only certified organic grains and grass, and they must have unrestricted outdoor access. In February 2010, the USDA clarified its rules by stating that organic cattle must spend the grass-growing season (at least 120 days per year) grazing on pasture. This is a welcome clarification, since prior to that cattle could be in dry lots so long as the door was left open to a (sometimes too small) pasture for the herd.

An additional new rule is that grass or “dry matter” must account for 30% of a cow’s diet. Here is the tricky part: The 30% pasture requirement is lifted during the last 120 days of a cow’s life, or the “finish feeding period.” Some ranchers and consumers believe cattle should be fed corn in these last four months to improve the flavor and marbling of the meat (for many, this also saves money). Keep in mind that cows’ digestive systems can’t handle grain or corn, so they suffer and often become ill. However, cattle that are grass fed throughout their lives will be less stressed because of a consistent diet, and they will produce leaner beef, which is much better for our cardiovascular systems and our waistlines, though, admittedly, our taste buds will notice a difference.

With produce, the main concern is with controlling pests. Synthetic pesticides are not allowed under organic certification standards, but some pesticides that are derived from plants are allowed. Unfortunately, even these “natural” pesticides kill both the beneficial insects and the pests, they have had adverse effects in tests on lab animals, and they can be devastating to aquatic life. Not to confuse the matter, but keep in mind that certain vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, English cucumbers) are often grown in greenhouses, which greatly reduces the need for pesticides and herbicides. To be sure, look for the Certified Greenhouse™ label.

The bottom line is that for the food you buy from large ranches and farms, read the labels thoroughly, understand the legal meaning of words like “Natural” and “Organic” and scrub those fruits and vegetables before you eat them, whether or not they are organic. I highly recommend utilizing local small farms via CSAs, and farmers’ markets since they are going to be the most reliable choice for the health-conscious consumer (and those who care about their carbon footprint). If at all possible, know your rancher and know your farmer, and the confusion amongst organic, grass-fed, pesticide-free, free-range, etc goes away.